The Charles Bridge

The time has finally come- this week marks my last few days in Prague! Our program officially ended about three weeks ago, but those weeks and even the past two months have absolutely flown by. I'm exceptionally grateful to have had to opportunity to travel beyond the borders of the Czech Republic to Rome, Budapest, Berlin, and Vienna just this past weekend. I've hosted several friends and been able to play tour guide, testing the knowledge I've obtained over my classes this summer. I think my architecture instructor would be proud of the way I can rattle off hallmarks of the Art Nouveau style as exhibited in Prague architecture. That being said, I'm ready to move on to my next adventure, one that will take me to Amsterdam, Paris, and London! Before I leave I'll have three days to show my friend, who I will be travelling with, highlights of the city, and our first stop will likely be the Charles Bridge.

The Charles Bridge is one of Prague's most iconic structures. The bridge was initiated by King Charles IV to replace a previous bridge that was destroyed when the Vltava River flooded. Crossing the bridge will take you from just outside of Old Town over the river to Mala Strana, or Lesser Town. The bridge was originally designed in the Gothic style, elements of which can be seen in the three towers that rise up at either end. The 30 statues that now decorate the sides of the bridge are all replicas that have replaced the damaged originals.

The bridge is a magnet for tourists and therefore a magnet for vendors. The artists and street performers you'll find there all have a document on display that serves as permits, and the Charles Bridge Artists Association is a "civic non-profit organization" that works to "preserve Charles Bridge's traditional atmosphere of an open-air gallery."

The bridge is crowded most hours of the day, and even if you visit the bridge in the early hours of the morning you'll find a choice few wandering across the stones. My favorite time to go, mostly for the sake of photographs, is just before the sunset. The crowds have usually dwindled and the light is stunning.

I won't miss the hoards of tourists who wander into my frames, bump into my shoulder, or stop abruptly to take pose-y vacation photos, but maybe once I'm gone those aspects will fall to wayside and I'll miss the historic atmosphere and old-world charm.

Letná Park

One of our favorite places in Prague to visit as a group was Letná Park at sunset, where a lot of the younger locals would hang out. The spectacular views one can witness from the park is certainly no secret, but I have found it to be devoid of the tourist raucous one would encounter at a place like Petřín Tower. Letná Park (in Czech Letenské sady) is situated on an embankment high above the Vltava River. It was on this concrete pedestal that a monumental statue to Joseph Stalin was erected in 1955 and then destroyed in 1962. In its place sits a giant functioning metronome, and during the day one can watch it go back and forth from as far away as Old Town Square. The metronome is supposed to symbolize positive progress in the Czech Republic after the fall of communism and is representative of a bright future. Now the park is a popular place for skateboarders, break-dancers, and it is even used as a concert venue.


 Last week I was lucky enough to find the metronome working at night! There was a giant tent set up not too far away in the park, so it's likely the metronome was turned on in for an event.

From the edge of the plinth you can look straight down Parizka (Paris Street) and see Old Town Square...

...not to mention Charles Bridge and Petřín Hill way in the back! The view is absolutely unparalleled.

St. Nicholas Church

Prague is home to 3 different churches of St. Nicholas, the largest of which is found in Lesser Town Square (Malostranské náměstí). During our second week of classes, we had the privilege of having our architecture lecture conducted in the nave of this very church!

It is important to note that while St. Nicholas in Mala Strana is a cathedral, its counterpart in Old Town Square is merely a church. The differentiation between these two places of worship lies in their most basic structure. A cathedral plan has very specific characteristics, including a central nave with flanking aisles, a transept, crossing, and choir. 

Entrance to the church is free, but in order to walk through the aisles that surround the nave you have to purchase a ticket. When we registered for our classes we payed a fee that was meant to cover the costs for most of our class excursions, so when we arrived our tickets had already been purchased and set aside for us. I, along with most of the other students in the architecture course, agreed that the trips we took during our class time were the highlight of our study abroad classroom experience. Carol, our instructor, has been teaching this summer course for 13 years and even studied at Charles University in Prague when she was a graduate student. Instead of spending most sessions in the classroom building, we had the opportunity to walk around the city and visit monuments that were both popular tourist attractions and culturally significant.

Our tickets granted us access to the upper gallery where one gets an incomparable view of the ornate interior of Prague's most substantial baroque building. The baroque period was characterized by an almost chaotic utilization of ornamentation with gilded ceiling, dynamic statuary and trompe l'oeil ceiling paintings. After exploring the church we sat in the pews and sketched the interior for 10 minutes for an assignment that was to capture elements of the building that we felt best characterized its baroque style.

This trip ended up being especially beneficial for my other class, a special topics photography course where I took my favorite shot of the term. Check out our classroom's blog that we've kept updated with our weekly assignments over at People & Places: Prague.

When in Trastavere...

Anyone who knows me can vouch that I have been dreaming of traveling to Italy for years. This past weekend, while most of the American students in Prague took a train ride to Vienna, Sam and I made a tiny detour...to Rome!

Our apartment ended up being located in what was touted as the perfect neighborhood, Trastavere. Trastavere is on the southwest side of the Tiber River, below Vatican City, and it consists of several universities and an eclectic mix of restaurants, bars, shops, churches, cafes, and local Roman residents.

On our first night we found an aperitif bar that was just around the corner. At L'aperitivo, one pays around 8 euros for an aperitif, or an alcoholic drink that is normally consumed before one's meal. Then, with the show of your receipt, you have access to a delicious and variant antipasto buffet. Freni e Frizioni was apparently appeared to be the most favored bar in the neighborhood, with groups of younger local patrons and tourists alike spilling out of the small locale and into the square along the main street.

Despite being intrigued by the nightlife that was peaking all around us, we collapsed in our beds soon after dinner, weary from our day of traveling, and woke up early the next morning when our tourist endeavors ensued!

The Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, the Sistine Chapel - we saw it all. The fountain is the largest Baroque fountain in Rome, and the Pantheon is extremely well preserved and has been in used consistently since its construction. Sam was an awesome tour guide and, having been to Rome before, she managed to map out some pretty efficient routes. Over the course of just less than 3 full days we were able to witness a striking collection of some of the most significant remaining architectural and historical structures that are still standing today. Watching slides of the Pantheon flash before your eyes during an Architectecture & Society lecture more than pales in comparison to seeing these structures in person.

What struck me the most about Rome is how condensed the city way. The historic center especially has several monuments packed into such a small area, with modern building having sprung up around every corner. I can only imagine living and working in a city where you pass the Fontana di Trevi every morning when you ride your moped to work.

And on our way to the airport on Sunday, only minutes before we caught the Metro to Termini Station, we stopped to take in the Spanish Steps at the Piazza di Spagna.

The Astronomical Clock

Every hour on the hour, hundreds of tourists gather in Old Town Square to watch the performance put on by Prague's astronomical clock. The clock is situated in the same building as Old Town Hall, a building which we toured this week as part of our architecture survey course. Old Town Hall in itself is composed of several layers of former homes, chapels, and in the basement one can even see the old street level (due to constant flooding of the Vlata river in the 13th century, the streets were raised 8 meters, subsequently shrouding entire buildings). The town hall served numerous governmental purposes and houses a courtroom, a reception hall for foreign guests, and even a dungeon in the lower levels.

On the side of the building opposite to the clock sits what used to be a private chapel. The windows along with most of the wall decoration has been restored, and this part of town hall suffered damage due to bombing in World War II. Remarkably, the clock itself has remained intact and is still carefully guarded today.

Also known as the Orloj, Prague's astronomical clock is the oldest working clock of its kind in the world, dating back to the 14th century. What makes this timepiece unique is its multiple dials, one of which is composed of 24 marks for each hour of the day tracks the movement of the sun and moon. This means that the hands on this dial mark where the sun rises and sets each day. The smaller astronomical dial also rotates to track the movement of various constellations, planets, and stars, and essentially serves as a calendar as well as a time-teller.

Housed inside the clock are figures of the twelve Apostles. A mechanized track rotates them past two small open doors and presents them to the crowd below. Four mechanical figures also flank the exterior of the clock. Our tour was timed just so we could watch the figures and mechanisms in the interior run their hourly course. If you're willing to brave the hoards of tourists that congregate in the square, then catching the clock in action is a must.

The Art of Packing

I have expressed this notion before, but sometimes packing feels like picking a favorite child. My closet is a carefully curated collection, each piece with its strengths and weaknesses which can be effectively employed to help me adapt to various situations, and I often feel reluctant to part with it. In accordance to my rather recent initiative to adopt a "less is more" approach to life in general, I embarked on a mission to compact my most essential articles into a single suitcase.

Before you even start filling your suitcase, the first step is to make a plan! Carry a small notebook with you during the few weeks before your trip and jot down any ideas that come to mind. Gather everything you need and make notes to omit things that might just add extra weight to your luggage. Because I'll be travelling after I'm through with classes, I've decided not to pack things like shampoo that I could easily buy once I arrive at my destination. In terms of clothing, start by laying out the pieces you're certain you want to bring. The easiest way to stretch your limited wardrobe is to make sure that every piece has at least two more items to wear with it.

Start by making a layer in the bottom of your luggage with irregularly shaped items like shoes and cosmetic bags. Everything doesn't have to fit together like puzzle pieces because you'll be filling the gaps with your clothing later.

Next, instead of folding your knits, roll things like tees, scarves and leggings. Rolling compacts the garments more effectively than folding them, and you can also use the rolled items to secure things like shoes. Sometimes I like to roll lightweight woven garments as well, especially because most synthetic fabrications won't crease.

On the top layer, I like to place more wrinkle-prone fabric like cotton and silk. The best way to avoid deep-set creases, especially because a heavy iron is the last thing you'll want to bring along, is to layer shirts and dresses and fold two of them together.

I like to keep more valuable items like my laptop, camera, and passport close by in my carry-on bag. Additionally, because there is always a chance that luggage may be misplaced, I'll be bringing a change of clothes and travel-sized toiletries. Make sure you reference the TSA guidelines for packing liquids before you get to the airport. Another thing to note is that you'll have to remove your shoes when you go through airport security, so your best option in terms of footwear would be flats that can be slipped off easily and worn with no-show socks.

By the time this post goes up (if everything goes as planned) I will already have landed in the Czech Republic! Let's hope my own packing advice serves me well.

Crash Course: Prague 101

Hello, and welcome to d&mAbroad! My name is Courtney and I'll be one of several bloggers reporting from the city of Prague this summer as I wrap up my junior year. It's likely you were able to infer that I'm a design & merchandising student at Drexel, but over the course of the summer I'll also be working towards my minor in art history and continuing to build my skills as an amateur photographer. I'll be enrolled in a survey of architecture and design as well as a street photography course, so prepare yourselves for loads of photos. Additionally, I've been granted the wonderful opportunity to develop a project for the study abroad department as part of a scholarship program, so hopefully I'll be able to provide you with updates along the way. 

I've known since my freshman year of college that Prague was the city for me. Since I've been accepted into the program, though, news of my travels have been met with resounding...ambivalence. "Oh! Prague? Where's that?"

(Image credit)

Nestled between Germany, Poland, Slovakia and Austria, Prague is the capital city of the Czech Republic. The history of this city spans a millennium: it once served as the seat of the Holy Roman Empire and Prague Castle is noted as the oldest ancient castle in the world. A coworker once referred to it as "the jewel of Central Europe" with numerous cultural hubs merely a train ride away. While I will be spending an additional month in Prague, I fully plan to take advantage of its central location. I'll be venturing to Vienna, Budapest, Rome, Berlin, Paris, and London before I make my way home to the states. 

Over the past three weeks, those of us enrolled in the program have been attending a "crash course" in Czech language and culture. We've been assigned a series of readings, plays and political manifestos alike, in order to give us a fundamental understanding of the modern Czech. Unfortunately, a solid understanding of the language has not been as easy to grasp. I experienced my first wave of panic during a phone call I made to a foreign airline last week. The woman on the other end answered in Czech and I, upon realizing that I recognized none of what she said, was unable to muster more than a pathetic "Um..." 

That being said, I'm off to spend some quality time with my Lonely Planet phrase book and a Czech audiobook in preparation for my departure next week. Wish me luck!

Czech Fashion

As a Design and Merchandising major at Drexel, I was intrigued to see what Czech fashion consisted of. I always had this idea that European style was classy and sophisticated, and everyone always looked presentable. Well, after being in Prague for a few weeks, my Prague 20^th Century Art and Design teacher informed me the Czech fashion is an oxymoron, meaning that Czech fashion is non-existent. Prague is city full of tourists, and actual locals are hard to come by. Although I have not witnessed the cutting edge fashion I assumed all Europeans possessed, I have stumbled upon my own findings for shopping and authentic fashionable Czech clothing.

My first day in Prague consisted of exploring the city and picking up a few necessities for the next few weeks (soap, towels, dishware etc), and while running these errands I naturally came upon the Czech Republic’s largest mall, the Palladium. The Palladium was recently constructed in 2007, and consists of four levels, boasting over 200 shops and roughly thirty restaurants and cafes. It is located in Náměstí Republiky, and it's easy to get to by taking the Metro. The Palladium has many stores that we have in America, such as Guess, Calvin Klein, and The Body Shop. Other familiar stores include H&M, Lush, Sephora and TOPSHOP. The Palladium is so massive; we have visited a few times and have yet to find time to see everything at once.

The Palladium

Also on the Metro, the Můstek stop offers shopping geared more towards tourists, with large popular chain stores such as The New Yorker, another H&M, Zara and United Colors of Benetton. While these stores are still great and have a lot to offer shoppers, I personally was on the search for apparel that was different and unique, and made by Czech fashion designers.

Last week when I had time to explore, I found two great boutiques, both selling clothing, accessories and jewelry all created by designers that lived in Prague and/or were Czech! Both stores were really unique, and I was happy to find something that was original. The first store is called Leeda, which is a fashion brand created by Czech designers Lucia Trnková and Lucie Kutálková. The boutique carries their clothing line, as well as a few styles of footwear plus an assortment of accessories including earrings, bracelets, headbands and necklaces. The clothing was ready to wear sportswear with a trendy twist, and all the clothing had a bright color palette.

After leaving Leeda, just a few stores down the block I found another great Czech fashion store called Nakoupeno, which carried Czech fashion and jewelry designers. This store was similar to a funky vintage shop, it was strategically cluttered, and one could spend an hour walking around and still not notice everything on display. The clothing sold at Nakoupeno was bit more eccentric than what was Leeda. There were a lot of skirts made of metallic spandex, dresses with a large bubble skirt full of fake sunflower heads (or other flowers), and striped parachute pants. Although I couldn’t picture myself being able to pull off some of these really interesting outfits, I did manage to find a black and crème striped turtleneck dress, with lace trim on the hem and sleeves, and to add a bit a punch, banana appliqué patches around the collar. It’s a great combination of the everyday, with a little something extra. Nakoupena also carried quite a few jewelry lines; all in all, there was something to be found there for everyone.

Mission accomplished!

Nakoupena Boutique

Here are additional links to various Czech Designers

www.leeda.cz

http://www.deers.cz/

http://www.pourpour.cz/

The Prague Castle

Prague Castle complex from other side of the Vltava River

One thing Prague is particularly famous for (other than beer) is the Prague Castle. The castle complex is one of the oldest and largest castles in the world, and it is still utilized to this day by the Czech government and President. As students participating in the UNO Summer Seminar series, we were granted the opportunity to actually go INSIDE the castle and view an assortment of rooms used for a variety of functions. This was a rare opportunity, as most tourists only get to view the castle from the exterior. The Baroque architecture and design in a few of the rooms was exquisite.

Picture of Spanish Hall inside the Prague Castle

The castle complex also includes a breathtaking gothic cathedral named after St. Vitus, the patron saint of actors, comedies, dancers and epileptics. He is also the patron saint of Bohemia, the area in the Czech Republic where Prague is located. The cathedral also houses quite a few pieces by famed Czech artists, including a stain glass window by Alfons Mucha.

St. Vitus Cathedral

After touring the castle and St. Vitus Cathedral, we briefly visited the American Embassy in Prague. We met with the director of Public Affairs, who provided us with a glimpse of life as an American living in Prague. He encouraged us to get lost and explore the city, and experience as much of Prague as we can in our short month here. After our scheduled morning activities and tours, we had the afternoon off to further acquaint ourselves with our new city. A small group of us had a delicious Italian meal at a charming restaurant near the American Embassy. The restaurant, called Gitanes, had delicious and fresh cuisine, and the décor alone made this place a perfect spot for an afternoon lunch. We all plan on dining there again before our departure!

Interior of Gitanes

Greetings from Praha! (Prague)

Ahoj Everyone! My name is Caitlin Stelben. I will be going into my third year at Drexel University. I am a Design and Merchandising major, with a minor in business administration. I am going on Co-op this Fall/Winter cycle, so I am so excited to have an educational “vacation” in Prague this summer before I start working full time.

Prague is the capital and largest city of the Czech Republic. It has become a popular tourist destination since the Velvet Revolution in 1989. It is a beautiful city, located on the Vltava River, in an area of the country known as Central Bohemia. Luckily, much of the city’s historic architecture and cobble stone streets have remained intact throughout the past century, so the city has an old renaissance appeal to it.

This study abroad program is an option for sophomores, pre-juniors, and juniors at Drexel University, and any major is eligible to apply. What is unique about this particular international program is that it is in conjunction with the University of New Orleans, so we will be taking classes and being instructed with students and staff members affiliated with the UNO (University of New Orleans). The educational program of this trip is four weeks long. We will be taking classes at the historic Charles University, however we will be residing at Czech Technical Institute.

I just arrived in Prague a few days ago, and have already begun exploring the city. It is quite easy to get lost, but as long as you have a map and can ask “Mluvite anglisky?” (Do you speak English?) chances are you will find your way sooner than later.

As a part of the Prague study abroad program, Drexel requires that we take a three week long introduction to Czech language and culture class. Our instructor was Kathy Dettmer, who is fluent in Czech and very familiar with Czech Republic, since she was a stationed here when she was a member of the Peace Corps. She provided us with an introduction to Czech language that will come into use for basic conversations with people, as well as for pub/restaurant environments. We also were given a glimpse into the history of the Czech Republic, from its foundation as a country, to the artistic culture of its people, and its duration under communism. We read multiple short stories ranging from Czech fairy tales, to information about the beer served in Prague, as well as a speech by the Czech Republic’s first president Havel.

Since arriving in Prague, I am very appreciative of all that we were taught in those short three weeks. There are many activities planned for us this upcoming week, as well as our first day of classes. Shortly, we have a planned group dinner at a local pub called the Pod Loubim.

Ciao!

-CS

https://drexel.studioabroad.com/index.cfm?FuseAction=Programs.ViewProgram&Program_ID=10020&Type=O&sType=O

The Beer Factory, Prague

The Beer Factory, Prague

If you are in Prague and enjoy beer you are in for a special treat when you visit The Beer Factory.  Located in the center of Prague in Wenceclav Square across from the Charles IV statue, The Beer Factory is a very fun bar/restaurant offering awesome food, music and of course tons of beer.  Each table includes 4 beer taps and a beer monitor which tabulates how much beer you've consumed.  Whenever you fill up your glass a tally is added to your tables total, which is then projected on of the the many screens on the wall of the bar.  Soon, the night turns into a huge competition against the other tables.

We have visited The Beer Factory several times so far and have enjoyed it thoroughly!  Any night of the week it is filled with young people from all over the world and is a guaranteed awesome time.

http://www.beerfactory.cz/

The Beer Factory

Vaclavske Namesti 58

Praha 1

Galerie Fotografie Louvre

One of the best parts about taking classes in Prague, is the field trips that we take. In the last two days, we have been to three great galleries. The first one we visited was Galerie Fotografie Louvre. Set up as both a cafe and a gallery, the space features different photographers work. Currently showing is work by Emila Medková.

Cafe at the entrance of the space

Floor detail from the gallery

Galerie Fotografie Louvre
Národní 22
Praha 1
110 00
email: galerie@galerielouvre.cz
tel: +420 724 054 055

Open from 1pm to 6pm
General Admission 50- Kč
If you have a student ID it is 30 - Kč


[You also get a free coffee with admission]

Černínský Palác

Černínský Palác

Černínský Palác, or Cernin Palace is the current home to Prague's Ministry of Foreign Affairs. We were given a private tour which was a great opportunity since the building is not open to the public. Even if you cannot go inside, the building it definitely worth seeing, as it is Prague's largest baroque palace - the facade stretches 130m. Built in the 17th and 18th centuries for Count Černín's family, it remained a private residence for only a short while due to the family's financial instability. It was then occupied by French and Bavarian armies during the Austrian Succession war, and used as the SS headquarters from 1939 to 1945.

After the war, foreign minister Jan Masaryk lived in a flat on the top floor of the palace. On March 10, 1948 he was found dead in the courtyard below his window, and it is believed that he was defenestrated - but his murder has not been proven.

The bathroom window from which Jan Masaryk was defenestrated.

Every hour, a series of bells can be heard ringing to mark the time from the nearby bell tower.

The palace has gorgeous gardens, which we were also taken to see, a perfectly manicured lawn and two pools take up the space between the palace and the summer house.

The palace gardens and summer house.
View of the palace from the gardens

More Photos

Visit the Palace:
Not open to the public.
Map

Terezín

Today's rainy, miserable weather was quite appropriate for our day trip to Terezin Concentration Camp.  Terezin was a town built in the 1780s.  At the time the city was used as a fortress to protect Prague from northern invaders.  Ironically, during World War II this town became a ghetto and concentration camp where Hitler sent thousands of people.  The Nazis told the world that this town was built for the Jews and would protect them from the war.  Terezin was the only "show camp" in all of Europe. In order to cover up the concentration camp to the Red Cross, the Nazis spruced it up to look like a great place to be. 

On June 14, 1940 adults and children including notable leaders, writers, actors and other members of the elite began being sent to this town being told they were going to a spa town.  

Of the nearly 140,000 men, woman, and children who passed through Terezin, 34,000 died.  

Although today was quite depressing, it was a valuable experience to see a concentration camp in person.  It allowed me to really have a better understanding and a clearer picture in my head of what the Holocaust was really about.

Terezin is located about 1 hour outside of Prague.  If you are ever in Prague and want to take a day trip, I strongly suggest you visit this incredible memorial.

Terezin - The National Cemetary

Terezin - Small Fortress

Terezin - Small Fortress

Visiting hours: 

Open daily, all year around

November 1 - March 31: 8am-4:30pm

April 1 - October 31: 8am-6pm

Terezin Memorial, Principova alej 304

CZ-411 55 Terezin

More information at: www.pamatnik-terezin.cz