Week One: The Grass is Greener

Did everyone have the most stressful couple days leading up to their departures?! After my car getting towed, delaying my flight because of my lack of a passport and visa, and almost having to cancel my trip all together, I am finally in Dublin. If you get to know me at all over these next few weeks, which I hope you do, you might start to figure out that I am not a nature lover. By that I mean I prefer a street over a trail and air conditioning over wind. So why did I choose to spend 5 weeks in a city filled with green landscapes? While I still might be trying to figure that out, the simple answer is that when else will I ever be able to.

So after a frustrating journey to Ireland I have now been here for just over a week. During the cab ride to the apartment I was surprised by the lack of green in the city of Dublin. Instead of hills and well, nature, I found myself driving through a city filled with cobble stone streets, coffee shops and pubs. So many pubs. While Dublin is an urban environment for the country of Ireland it is very different from what we know to be considered urban.


Street in Dublin @lexieberg



After spending time in Ireland, or the correct term, The Republic of Ireland, the school took us to Northern Ireland which is part of The United Kingdom. Here is where I came across the typical green landscapes that I had been expecting to see. As the locals say, "the grass is greener on the other side of the border." Stopping in Belfast, Derry and Donegal via bus, we were given a true scenic and historical tour of multiple cities. Cities that look straight off a postcard.

 Slieve League Cliffs @lexieberg

 

As previously mentioned, I have pretty strong feelings towards nature and having to hike miles to be able to see such incredible views. So while I did hike to the top of almost every hill, below is a more realistic photo of me sitting and enjoying the view rather than hiking it. Basically I was living up to every Europeans idea of Americans being lazy. But hey, I am still hoping I can blame it on the jetlag. My hope is to have a different outlook on such activities by the time I leave so I will keep everyone posted and photograph my progress along the way!

 

 Slieve League Cliffs @lexieberg

Cead Mile Failte!

Cead Mile Failte! This Irish term means a "Hundred Thousand Welcomes." Every encounter with Dubliners or Jackeens had used this phrase. Aside from being bombarded by that phrase, "Thanks a million" was another. The locals were surprisingly excited to talk to us "Americans." Our professors told us it is because they are as crazy about president Obama as we are. They apparently didn't like us during the reign of George W. Bush.  

This is the view from the apartment I am staying at for the first week in Dublin, Ireland! It may be on top of bars, but it so close to everything in this city! 
   

Just like every major city around the world there are designated fashion and shopping streets. The first day, we had to buy our own bedding and toiletries. Our program directors walked us throughout the city centre where we are living, and pointed out the major shopping areas which are: Stephen Greene's, Grafton Street, and Henry Street.  I wish Philly had more designated shopping areas I wanted to explore.

After a few days of being here, I'm excited to live, explore, and learn more about this city & country! Hoping for the best, but looks like I'm going to have an awesome time here. Cheers!......................

Dublin on my mind

It has officially been 4 weeks since I have returned home to the states and Dublin is always on my mind. I miss the cool 68 degree weather, mist, tea, brown bread, grazing cows, greenery, mountains, coast, and the whole culture of music, poetry, and theatre. Here are my ten most memorable, beloved, and missed moments from my trip:

My first journal entry in Howth, my first excursion out of Dublin.

Seeing the fabulous Red Hot Chili Peppers and Kate Nash!!

Crossing an actual rope bridge in Northern Ireland...the wind made it shake.

Visiting the Giant's Causeway, the most magical place.

Entering free Derry.

The view from the summit of Bray Head...worth the tough hike!

Walking along the "peace wall" in Belfast.

Scaling the slippery, railing-less steps of Skellig Michael to see a 5th century monastery.

Two words: Silent Disco. Galway knows how to throw a dance party!

Biking through Inis Oirr, the smallest of the Aran Islands.

I wrote in my last post how I am trying to live each moment as if I'm still in Ireland, which means exploring, wandering, and not always sticking to a strict plan. This is starting to soak in, but it's definitely something I need to work on, especially as Junior year fast approaches.

My best friend is in Dublin now, which of course makes me long to be there even more. She tweeted, "Listening to Once and Glen Hansard, Walking Around Dublin in the Rain and Tea #irishtweet." Aside from her escapades, I'm constantly reliving my own adventures because Dublin is always on my mind. I've been catching up with friends before they go back to college, and the question "So how was Dublin?" keeps popping up. I think I've gotten my friends to consider studying abroad in Ireland because of the way I gush about it. Drexel in Dublin, run by FIE, was the best study abroad experience I could have asked for. It got me thinking globally, gave me a sense of independence, and took me for a wild adventure. From the warm hospitality to the wonderful culture, every aspect of my trip was a thrill. I highly recommend this trip to anyone and everyone reading this, you won't regret it!

Eireann go bragh (Ireland forever),
Danielle

Reflections

After sitting down to create my master plan of schedules for the remaining five academic terms at Drexel, I suddenly feel the need to reflect on where I've been in order to figure out where I'm going.

I finished my study abroad experience and have been home for three weeks. My outlook on life has been altered profoundly, and if my experience in Ireland has taught me anything, it's to take it one day at a time. I'm used to planning my schedule months in advance, always being busy, and having to "pencil people in," in order to make time for my family and social life. But when I was living in Dublin, however, the only person I had to worry about was myself. I took leisurely strolls through St. Stephen's Green, did my own grocery shopping and cooking, read books in the National Library, and planned my days one moment at a time. Choosing which path to take on my route to class was a private adventure, and making shopping decisions was a solo experience. I blew whichever direction the Dublin gusts were blowing, and had nobody to answer to but myself. Each day was fresh and new, giving me the opportunity to stay or go, tarry or hurry.

A place where I felt truly alive: Giant's Causeway.

It's funny how once I got back to America, I fell right back into my pattern of planning out my life weeks in advance. I got back into the grind of play rehearsals, job interviews, and trying to make time for my loved ones. At this point in time, I know exactly what I'll be doing for the next four weeks, and there's almost no wiggle room to make ammendments.

How boring does that sound? If I start living in Philadelphia with the same perspective I had in Dublin, I bet my days could be just as adventurous and spontaneous as they were in Ireland. From this point on, it's going to be my top priority to drift in the breeze the way I used to. It'll be my job to live one moment at a time, rather than anticipating life events that are 2, 3, or 4 weeks down the line. This new project of living as if I were in Dublin (but in Philly) commences now.

Dublin To Do List:

Looking back on my trip, it's difficult to pick just one time or place that left the biggest imprint on me. There were so many discoveries, festivals, ferry rides, bike excursions, concerts, and nights out that made my trip so amazing. My roommate and best friend, Samantha, will be heading to Dublin in a week after working at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, and it's time to recommend some sites. Everything on this list can easily be done in one day, and you'll find that everything in the city centre is a nice walk, so there's no need for a cab...unless you're wearing high heels.

Sam, this one's for you.

1) Read a James Joyce short story from Dubliners on a bench in St. Stephen's Green. When you're done, feed the swans. The ducks will want to join in the party, so make sure you have enough 40 cent rolls from Dunnes to go around. Walk around the park and find the gazebo ("bandstand") in the South East quadrant. Have a picnic in said gazebo.

2) Stroll down Grafton Street, which runs diagonally from the stone archway in St. Stephen's Green all the way to Trinity College. There will be plenty of buskers and street performers. Give the best musician you see a euro, from me. Don't forget to stop to smell the flowers along the way!

3) Walk to Trinity College, step through the stone tunnel and be amazed by the beautiful architecture all around you. Don't bother with a tour, just sit on the steps of an academic building and write in your journal. While you're there, see the Book of Kells! It's about 8 euros, but totally worth it. Your ticket also gets you into the famous "Long Room," home to some pretty impressive documents (namely, the proclamation from the Easter 1916 Rising).

4) Sun bathe in the gardens behind Dublin Castle. After you've soaked in some rays (or raindrops) make sure to stop and try the soup of the day at the cafe. Just climb the stone steps over the bridge and you'll be on a fancy looking patio. Even if you don't order the soup, the samples are given out in little ceramic mugs.

5) Continue on to the Chester Beatty Library and take a look in the 2nd floor gallery of ancient Japanese and Middle Eastern illustrations. When you're done, walk up to the roof and enjoy the views from the rooftop garden.

6) Walk east to Great Georges St., then walk 2 blocks south. George Street Arcade will be on your left. Make sure to hit up the jewelry kiosk, bookstore, and most importantly, Simon's Place for a cup of "white coffee." Yes, this is the same coffee shop from the film Once. The music shop, Walton's, (where the famous Falling Slowly song was filmed) is right across the street.

7) Cross the Ha'penny bridge and continue towards O'Connell Street. Walk towards the Millennium Spire. Look for bullet holes in the statues that you pass along the way, relics of the Easter Rising. From here, shopping on Henry Street is the next logical thing to do. 

8) Have dinner and a pint at Church Bar, on Henry Street, a few blocks West of the Spire. It's a little touristy, but who could resist having a traditional fish & chips in a beautifully restored church?

9) See a live show at either the Twisted Pepper or, if you can get tickets, Whelan's. Both are the perfect intimate music venue.

10) Walk through Temple Bar during the daytime as well as at night. Appreciate the live music, festive atmosphere, and graffiti.

Déjà vu

Last night I walked over the Schuylkill river along Chestnut Street to go see my friend's play, and the 30 minute walk into center city brought back a rush of memories from Ireland. I recalled walking along the Liffey everyday on my way to school, trodding the familiar path parallel to the river, and passing five bridges along the way. I remembered the sights and sounds of the city passing me by, as I looked out from under my umbrella. While crossing the Schuylkill last night, I remembered crossing Grattan Bridge on my way to another play, not so long ago. It was during the 10DaysinDublin arts festival, and was held in an artist loft amidst installation art, studios, and gallery space. Here's what adorned the walls of the hallway leading to the performance space:

After crossing the river into the core of the city, there's always the walk home to give you time to reflect on the night's events. That powerful feeling that comes with walking with your friends along a river at night in a beautiful city struck last night just as it had so often before, while I was exploring everything that Dublin had to offer. The way city lights reflect off the water's surface, casting a magical glow makes one feel invincible, young, and alive (cue Fun's hit single, We Are Young). Even though I really miss living in Dublin, there are parts of Philly that transport me back to July and it makes me misty eyed. I may be back home in the City of Brotherly Love, but the Island of Saints and Scholars is still always in my heart. Both of these rivers are central to the layout and design of Dublin and Philly, and they're essential to the experience of those living here.

The Liffey

The Schuylkill

Irish Theater

As a self-proclaimed theater nerd and arts enthusiast, studying abroad in Ireland was the perfect choice. Why, you might ask? The most famous poets (WB Yeats), playwrites (Samuel Beckett), and novelists (James Joyce) of the 20th Century are from Ireland. While learning about Irish literature during my studies, I got the chance to analyze some of the great pieces of drama and poetry that changed the face of literary history forever. Beckett's Waiting for Godot and Joyce's "Ulysses" are two epics that happen to be born from the same homeland. It's truly amazing that such a tiny rock in the Atlantic Ocean has produced such great plays, stories, and poems. The square miles of the island can barely contain the high intensity of culture that was bred there.

While in Dublin, I saw four plays: The House by Tom Murphy, The Playboy of the Western World by JM Synge, The Plough and the Stars by Sean O'Casey, and a festival play called A Play for Bad Actors.

Each of the plays was drenched in Irish history: one was set in 1950s, one in 1900, and one during the 1916 Rebellion. The serious subject matter of immigration, sovereignty, and loss are typical of the Irish experience of tragedy. The plays all use pub humor to balance the horrors that later unfold, so I found myself laughing one minute and crying the next.

Another, more modern example of Irish creativity can be seen in the Grammy-winning film and Tony-sweeping musical, Once. I saw it on Broadway this afternoon at a matinee show and was automatically transported back to Dublin. I was completely blown away by the musicians, the script, and the adaptation from screen to stage. During the pre-show (the 20 minutes leading up to the start of the performance), ten musicians from the cast jammed onstage and audience members were invited up to the set to order a pint and join in the musical number. I was so full of glee, stomping and clapping to my heart's content. This euphoria lasted about ten minutes before I was ushered back to my seat for the show to start. I cried at the first notes of "Falling Slowly" and tears started to gather under my chin. But I didn't care, because for two and a half hours, I was in Ireland again. The spell lasted until the actors took their final bow, and then I sadly realized I was back in America. 

Marketa Irglova and Glen Hansard in the film, Once.

Steve Kazee and Cristin Milioti in the acclaimed musical, Once.

Goodbye, Dublin

I've been home in the States, back and forth between my house in Ocean Grove, NJ and my apartment in Philadelphia, for the past week and a half. The adjustment back into the fast-paced atmosphere, 90 degree weather, and less adventurous lifestyle has been a tough one, to say the least. Part of me is glad to be home, but I'm also yearning to be walking the streets of Dublin once again. My trip ended with a visit from my family (Mom, Dad, and twin sister) who then flew back to Newark with me. Here's a sneak peak into my travel journel from my final day in Ireland to show you how the transition back into American life first began:

*****

"It's my last day in Dublin and I don't know what to do with myself. I've walked down my favorite streets, had a picnic lunch from Dunnes in St. Stephen's Green, made a final purchase (striped nautical dress), ate soda bread, took my last Luas ride, got my Toms wet in the rain, and sat in the park behind Dublin Castle. The only thing left to do is pack, nap, and go to Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Ireland.

I have mixed feelings about leaving after an exceptional 6-week experience, but I'm so thankful that I got to end this journey with my family. They got to experience some of my favorite foods, places, and memories alongside me. I got to visit the Cliffs of Moher again, and had a surprise 45 minute adventure in Galway. I kissed the Blarney stone for the second time, and visited another section of The Burren. I brought my family on a day trip to Howth, my favorite seaside town in Dublin County, as my trip came full circle. Here are some images from my last week in Ireland, maybe they can express my love of this country better than my words can."

*****

After living in Ireland for  5 weeks, seeing the country through my family's eyes gave me a fresh perspective. They were particularly impressed with Dublin Castle, which for me, was just another beautiful park. My sister's favorite part of the trip was our day-long excursion in Howth, a fishing village north of the city, but still in Dublin County. Sharing my favorite places, foods, and scenery with my family made my trip more meaningful, and I did my best to pass along my newfound knowledge from my Irish Studies classes to enlighten them on some of the quirks of Irish culture. I feel so lucky to have gotten to impart my studies onto them as an unofficial tourguide of the Emerald Isle, becaues it helped my journey to come full circle as I ascended from student to teacher.

Can you tell my mom is jet lagged?

My sister admiring the flowers on Grafton St.

Looking over the bay in Howth

Climbing the Cliffs of Howth

My sister discovering the flora of The Burren

Eyre Square in Galway

Family Kodak Moment in front of Dublin Castle

Galway Film Festival & Cork Literary Festival

Clockwise from Top Left: L.E. Orla, Wool Socks, Galway Film Fleadh, Gold Bangle,
Jasper Quinn, County Cork, 10DaysInDublin Festival, Sweater Sleeve, Galway.

Aside from soaking up the fashion scene in Ireland, I've been taking advantage of the wide range of summer arts festivals happening all over the country. The 10DaysInDublin arts festival was full of hilarious plays, dance performances, comedians, poetry slams, and concerts. It's run entirely by volunteers who are passionate about the arts, and I attended two of the multitude of events: a musical performance by a band called Bouts and a play entitled A Play for Bad Actors. Both venues were perfect backdrops for two magical evenings of live music and theater.

In my study tour to the Southwest of Ireland, the Literary Festival in Bantry, Co. Cork provided a sense of adventure and quenched the needs of my inner poetry nerd. I chummed around with tea and scones and the Irish Navy whilst listening to a reading by Jasper Quinn, a freelance writer who sailed around Ireland on a kayak and then wrote about his experiences. He was witty and hilarious, and knew how to make fun of himself. The officers in the Irish Navy on the L.E. Orla were kind enough to offer their ship as the venue, appropriate enough, seeing as the reading was about being out at sea. One quote that stuck out in my mind was when Jasper said, "Coming home means going out to sea." Many an Irish writer has written about Ireland from outside its borders, which was true for Jasper as well. I'm not sure why so many literary geniuses have felt the need to leave Ireland in order to properly write about it, but it's definitely a common theme. 

After Cork, we made our way slowly up to Galway for the 24th Annual Film Fleadh and saw a thrilling drama called Jump. It was the perfect art house film to see and I was completely drawn in by the plot, which followed eight loosely connected characters over the course of a hectic and fatal New Years Eve in Derry. I'll be visiting Derry and Belfast next weekend, and I'm curious to see what Northern Ireland is really like after learning so much about "the troubles." On my travels, I purchased a silver claddagh ring, a gold bangle, and the most comfy sweater I've ever worn. Aside from the many arts festivals, I had quite an outdoorsy adventure. I rode a pony up a mountain, scaled the steep cliffside of Skellig Michael, was mesmerized by the Cliffs of Moher, and found a peaceful, rocky perch in The Burren. After three weeks of living in Dublin and travelling to Cork, Kerry, Clare, Blarney, Cobh, Bantry, and Galway, the best way to sum up this journey would be to say that I've found the perfect balance of art, academia, and nature. 

Creative Quarter & Dublin Hipsters

Clockwise, from top left: Graffiti in Temple Bar, Lace necklace at the design center, Hand-dyed yarn made in Ireland, Bow's window display, Colorful, knitted coral reef at Trinity College, Wall art in a fitting room, Flowers for sale in the Creative Quarter, Visual merchandising in Bow, and Colman seated at his desk.

After almost two full weeks of living in Dublin, I no longer feel like a tourist. I'm listening to Irish music, going to concerts at intimate, local venues, shopping in the markets, chatting with Dubliners, and reading Yeats and Joyce in the rare case that I have free time in my flat. In my last post, I introduced the Creative Quarter and explained a few prominent trends that I've been noticing on the streets and in pubs, and it's time to add a new layer of perspective.


At this point in my study abroad experience, I've grown a lot more comfortable striking up converstations with locals and asking questions about their style. Colman (Gaelic for "Dove"), pictured in the center tile above, was manning a shop called Bow in the Creative Quarter this past Monday. I timidly approached him and asked if I could ask him some questions, and he immediately openned up about Dublin trends...or lack of. According to Colman, the Irish don't follow specific trends the way that Americans do. Instead, they're "influenced by the world." Some people, especially youth, tend to have a certain daily uniform that they adhere to, more or less. Others, who would be considered "hipsters" by American standards, would completely reject popular fashion and wear whatever suits their mood. Often, someone who doesn't care one way or another about the way they dress could be perceived by others as the most stylish person in the world. 


Colman said there's still an interest in high fashion and style icons from Paris and America, but for the most part, Irish people draw inspiration from the streets, culture, and life. They care less about what models are wearing in fashion magazines and care more about what the cool waitress did with her hair or how the group of fashionable pub-goers layered their tights and jean shorts. Regardless of the lack of following specific trends, I've still noticed recurring motifs of skull prints, American flags, and long fringe everytime I shop. The way in which the Irish adapt these popular motifs, however, is as plentiful as the number of clovers growing in the hills of County Wicklow. 


For more information on Bow, please find their e-commerce site via the following link:


http://bowpowerscourt.com/


That's all for now,
Danielle

Dublin: Drenched in Design

Dublin has been drizzling, dripping, and raining droplets of beauty since my plane landed yesterday at 7 AM. The wet climate not only makes the Emerald Isle “forty shades of green,” but seems to help the growth of warmth, culture, and art. My first impression of this city, which is home to over 25% of Ireland’s population, was a urban yet quaint, walkable, friendly city where pub culture, design, graffiti, and deep-rooted cultural quirks flow through the city like the River Liffey.

Style-wise, Dublin women have found the perfect balance of dressing impeccably while simultaneously braving the unpredictable weather. Here, “wellies” (rainboots), colorful tights, and the perfect raincoat are the essentials for looking flawless in the on-and-off drizzle. Dubliners look fashionable in the rain, so when the sun comes out, they’re simply radiant. 


I’ve walked along the major shopping street of the northern half of the city, Henry Street, and briefly explored the Creative Quarter, which is home to small thrift stores and boutiques that feature up-and-coming Irish designers. I’ve seen some of the most delicate pieces of jewelry, beautiful wedding gowns, and hats designed by Aisling Ahern, the Millinery of the year. The school I’m attending, Dublin Business School, is conveniently located a block away from the Creative Quarter and I cannot wait to explore it on my lunch breaks and after class.

Here are some of the photographs I took (encouraged by the store owner) of the visual merchandising, jewelry, and tags that stood out the most in the first store I walked into this afternoon, Om Diva:

Aisling Millinery

Made in Ireland Project

Jewelry displayed on a flower hook

The store consists of four levels: the basement has vintage pieces, the main floor is established designers, the second floor is home to new Irish designers, and the third floor is a studio for one of the clothing designers. Bella, Om Diva's shop worker, explained to me how Irish designers are just now starting to get support and are gaining popularity. Thrift stores are a favorite, as well as stores like Topshop, Penneys, and Dunnes. In just two days, I've discovered some of the most welcoming and creative shops and I cannot wait to find what else Dublin has to offer.


Slán go fóill,
Danielle